Sangkhlaburi in North West Thailand
Chedi Luang Phaw Utama
I see my path, but I don't know where it leads.
Not knowing where I'm going is what
inspires me to travel.
Rosalia De Castro
If you feel you are going nowhere slowly, you may just be on the right road to Sangkhlaburi, a pretty little town nestled around a lake and surrounded by high peaks. The town is situated north west of Thailand near the border of Burma.
To get there you would need to head out on the highway from
Kanchanaburi
towards the lush mountainous west on what seems to be a never ending road
to nowhere. The total travel distance is around 225 kilometers or 133 miles. And there is no shortage of natural as well as historical distractions along the way. One such diversion only 30 kilometers or 18 miles out of the town of Kanchanaburi, is a prehistorical neolithic burial site believed to date back as far as 10,000 years. A little further on is a historical park with several remains of a 13th century Khmer city. Further up is
Hellfire Pass
, a mountain pass cut out of rock by prisoners of the Second World War who where forced by the Japanese to build the so called Death Railway. One of Thailand's most popular waterfalls is at Erawan National Park along the route albeit on a different road. Close by are two limestone caves and another waterfall with large deep pools. Back on the highway again you can stop over at Hin Dat Hot Springs where you can take a welcome short rest, soak it up in the pleasant mineral rich waters and have something to eat at one of the food stalls. After that you may want to visit one of the elephant camps along the way.
Erawan Waterfall
Sangkhlaburi
Along the Highway
Still further along the highway is the Sai Yok National Park where a distraction of another kind took pace during the Russian roulette scenes that where filmed there for the movie The Deer Hunter. Nestling under some tall mountain peaks is Thong Pha Thum. It's the last village you come across before you head up a winding steep ascent to Sangkhlaburi where a combination of limestone peaks and the huge lake Vajiralongkorn make for some quiet spectacular views.Approximately half way from this point is Sunyataram Forest Monastery where one of Thailand's most charismatic and revered monks was once involved in a series of scandals and subsequently had to flee the country in the mid 1990's. Posters of the disgraced monk still adorn the walls and you are very welcome to purchase some of his sermons and books. The slightly run-down monastery consists of a few wooden buildings that are spread out around the forest.
Sawan Bundarn Cave
Sangkhlaburi
Sawan Bundarn Cave
Sawan Bundarn Cave is just 20 kilometers or 12 miles from Sangkhlaburi and situated near the Three Pagoda Pass. Inside the cave you will encounter bats so small that many of them are only about the size of a bumblebee. See if you can spot any! Friendly monks maintain the cave and there is no entrance fee.
Three Pagodas Pass Border
Sangkhlaburi
Three Pagodas Pass Border
The outlying area of Sangkhlaburi is host to the Karen and Mon hill tribe villages, a few curious caves and waterfalls in the Khao Laem Wildlife Reserve and the Thung Yai Naresuan Wildlife Sanctuary. Another 25 kilometers or 15 miles futher north towards the Burmese border you will find the Three Pagodas Pass. This became the main overland trade route between Thailand and southern Burma. Although the pass was named after three small pagodas, the ones seen at the site are not the original pagodas as they were submerged by the reservoir as the lake has become known. There is not much to do here other than to buy a few souvenirs at the busy market. The pass is normally open from 8:00 am until 6:00 pm but tourists are not permitted to cross the border here. Only Thai's are.
Floating House on lake Vajiralongkorn
Sangkhlaburi
Places of Interest
Taking a leisurely stroll across Mon Bridge, named after the Mon tribes people,
is an adventure all on it's own and well worth the experience. It's also the longest wooden bridge in Thailand. Just be careful walking across the bridge though as it is quite rickety in places and you would need to constantly look where you put your foot next. High heels are definitely not recommended. The villagers who built the bridge themselves, maintain any repairs that are needed. They also know just how to navigate their way across with absolute ease. Once you reach the end, you will come across a small Mon village where you can stop for a cool drink and perhaps sample some of the local cuisine. From here you will be able to view some of the floating houses occupied by the locals.
Thailand's longest Wooden Bridge
Sangkhlaburi
Places of Interest
Once you have completed the 400 metre epic journey across the bridge to the Mon village and restored some much needed energy, then a visit to the nearby Wat Wangwiwekaram will only add to your excitement. The awe inspiring and unusual complex is the amalgamation of Thai, Burmese and Indian architecture. To get there you would need to take a left turn parallel to the lake and walk about 2 kilometers along a concrete road. Take your time as you don't want to be all hot and sweaty when you get there. Air-conditioning is a luxury here. If you like, why not ask one of the locals with a motorcycle to ferry you there. On the left you will see a huge golden chedi and an interesting daily market in front of it selling mainly Burmese handicrafts including simple wooden carvings and textiles including sarongs. On the right you will see the main temple buildings which houses murals depicting various stages of Buddha's past and present lives. Luang Phaw Utama nearby, is built in the style of the Mahabodhi stupa of Bodhgaya, India and forms part of the same temple complex. It is a towering gold-topped chedi that commands an extensive and breathtaking view over the surrounding countryside. Inside is Thailand's largest marble image of Buddha.
The local information Service Centre
Sangkhlaburi
Elephant Trekking
Now is the perfect opportunity for you to do some jungle trekking or better still, elephant trekking and perhaps a spot of bamboo rafting as well. A motorboat ride on the lake is also a absolute must. Should you be here during the dry season when the water is fairly low then there is a good chance you will get to see the sunken ruins of an ancient older town half hidden in the murky waters. If diving is your scene then you can explore the underwater treasure from a different angle.
Elephant Camps
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